Quillwork

The quill-wrapped horsehair (QWHH) technique is a rare and highly demanding form of North American Indigenous quillwork, likely originating among the Crow and Plateau tribes in the early 19th century. Using porcupine quills wrapped around single or double bundles of horsehair, it creates distinctive three-dimensional embroidery for garments, buffalo robe strips, moccasins, and other items. Surviving examples are extremely scarce, found mainly in museum and private collections, and valued for their technical complexity, aesthetic uniqueness, and cultural significance.

Quillwork—the art of decorating with the quills of the North American porcupine—is among the oldest and most significant artistic techniques of the Indigenous peoples of North America. It was far more than mere decoration; the patterns carried profound spiritual symbolism, reflecting cosmology and the cosmic order, while conveying blessings, protection, and vital life force to their wearers.

Side seam moccasins are the oldest known type of moccasins from the Great plains. During the first half of the 19th century, they were the only type of shoes worn by most of the Great plains and Plateau tribes. They consisted of a single piece of leather and had soft soles. Some of them were decorated with quill and beadwork. Very often they were made for trading purposes. Winter moccasins with the fur on were also made following this pattern.